In our prior articles, we covered the Weatherization Assistance Program & delved into DOE’s priority list for weatherizing mobile homes. We started with the mobile homes because they generally are some of the biggest energy hogs out there. In this article, we are going to look at DOE’s priority list for single-family homes.

#1 – Sealing the walls, floors and ceilings where air might enter or escape (Air Sealing); as I mentioned in the prior article we will have an upcoming article dealing with just this topic. One important thing to remember, on the exterior of the house it is not only meant to prevent air from getting inside but also to prevent water from infiltrating the structure.

#2 – Attic Insulation; is an important component from not only keeping that hot air in the summer from entering your house, but also preventing the hot moist air from your house entering your attic during the winter. This will also be addressed fully in a future article, as the choices, methods, and items to watch out for would not leave enough room for the rest of this article.

#3 – Dense-pack sidewalls; this item will not apply to many houses as they already have insulation in them. If your walls do not have insulation in them, the method they are proposing is to dense pack cellulose insulation in them by drilling holes into each stud bay. There are other methods available, which depending on your budget may give you a better bang for your buck.

#4 – Install a smart thermometer; I do not know why they saved this one till so late, or did not include it on the mobile home priority list. This is one of the cheapest methods for lowering ones utilities. By installing a programmable thermostat, you can save money by reducing the usage of your HVAC system when no one is home, or is sound asleep.

#5 – Replace Incandescent light bulbs with Compact Florescent Lights (CFL’s); not only will this save you money on your regular electric bill, a CFL does not produce as much heat as a regular light bulb. I would also mention that the newer LED lights, while expensive are definitely worth looking into and would actually be the better choice in most situations.

#6 – Seal and insulate your ducts; while most houses ducts are installed better than inside a mobile home, they are generally also left exposed inside the crawl space or attic. If they are not properly sealed or insulated, your energy dollars are being wasted in unconditioned spaces that can also cause issues with condensation.  All connections and joints should be sealed with mastic or UL 181 tape and the ducts should be insulated with a minimum of R-4 Insulation.    

#7 – Install Insulation in the floor joists located in an unfinished basement or crawlspace; while you can do this, I can think of many other items that would give you more bang for your buck. Just a few examples would be creating a sealed crawl space, using closed cell spray foam around the sill plate, installing solar screens and / or storm windows.

#8 – Replace the Refrigerator; as we discussed in the Money saving projects, tips & tricks — Part 2  article, getting rid of an older refrigerator can easily cut $200 off your yearly electric bill.

If you compare the two lists, you will spot some major differences and you might also be left thinking – what does this item or that item have to do with weatherization? In all honesty, some of these items have nothing to do with weatherization, but you must remember DOE’s main purpose is in reducing energy usage. We must also point out that this is the most widely used programs nationwide and it is a good base to start from.

Another good item brought out by this, is it amplifies the point we brought out in the last article – The first thing to keep in mind is that no two houses are ever the same. What your neighbor had done may not be the best option in your case. In the next few articles we will discuss in more depth, ways to properly air seal your house, and insulating options when it come to your house.

As we mentioned in the prior article – many of the southern states endured some of the coldest weather, we have seen in some 20 odd years and with it some of the highest utility bills. While it is a little too late now to lower January’s bill, one call still take care of the issues now which will help you not only through the rest of winter, but for many years to come.  The nice thing is, not only can some of these items help lower your utility bills, make you feel more comfortable, but you can probably get a tax credit on your 2010 taxes.

The first thing to keep in mind is that no two houses are ever the same. What your neighbor had done may not be the best option in your case. Another item to keep in mind is that different climates require different measures. What is considered best practices here in Alabama, would not work to well in Maine and vice versa. One other often overlooked fact is that there are three different climate zones in Alabama, each with it’s own requirments. With that being said, the DOE has created two priority lists for families in the southern climates to help reduce their utility usage and weatherize there home.

The first priority list is for one of the biggest energy hogs out there – the mobile home aka trailer. Even though many of the newer ones have been built to meet more stringent guidelines, they will generally still have a higher utility costs as compared to a traditional house of the same size. Even if all the 1.6 million units produced in the last ten years (Census department 1999 -2008), met the same standards as a traditional house you would have to balance that against how many units are out there. According to the latest Census bureau numbers, there are approximately 8,630,000 mobile homes out there, which leaves almost 7 million mobile homes that are older than 10 years.

#1 – Replace Incandescent light bulbs with Compact Florescent Lights (CFL’s); not only will this save you money on your regular electric bill, a CFL does not produce as much heat as a regular light bulb. Article – Money saving projects, tips & tricks — Part 2

#2 – Replace the Refrigerator; not only did we discuss this in the same article mentioned above, we would recommend this for almost all the appliances in your mobile home with Energy Star appliances. Most mobile homes that are sold use the cheapest appliances around. Designing and building energy efficient appliances costs more money, which is not the name of the game when it comes to mobile homes.  

#3 – Seal the HVAC ducts; in most mobile homes if you take off the register, you will see gaps around the duct & the flooring. This issue can easily be solved with what is referred to as a duct boot. By properly installing these and sealing them with mastic, you would not only increase the efficiency of your heating unit, but also eliminate a huge hole that allows outside air in along with mice.

#4 – Fill the roof cavity with loose fill fiberglass insulation; ok, I will state that this is not always the best or safest idea. First, many of these older trailers have suffered some water damage & the additional weight and pressure used to fill the cavity can pop the ceiling. If an owner has installed any recessed lights that are not rated for insulation around them, one could easily start a fire. If money is an issue, I would probably recommend that your trailer be cool sealed professionally. This would equate to a base coat of cool sealing being applied, a fiberglass mat embedded in it, followed up by at least one finish coat.

#5 – Seal remaining leaks in Ceiling, Walls, & Floors; we will be covering this topic more in depth in an another article. One area of major concern in mobile homes is where the plumbing lines come inside the house as these are not only generally quite large, but also where the mice like to come in to get out of the weather.

#6 – Patch any holes in the belly & fill with loose fill insulation; this is important on mobile homes to not only protect the water lines from freezing but to help with the efficiency of your HVAC system. This is also a popular nsting area, so sealing it properly will help prevent some unwelcome visitors.

#7 – Clean or replace room air conditioners; I will also part with them on this, unless you do not have an HVAC system, those should be removed. If you have no other option, those should be serviced at least once a year when they are installed & taken down for the winter months. For those with an HVAC system, this should be services at least once a year, if not twice (before the cooling season & before the heating season). As a quick side note, if you do have an HVAC system, you should consider installing a programmable thermostat.

#8 – Install Solar Screens on the East, West & South windows; this is actually a very good way to reduce radiant heat gain during the summer. If you are surrounded by trees or the windows are shaded via a porch, etc…, this would probably be a waste.  While they do not mention it, these should only be left up during the summer months and replaced with storm windows during the winter months.

In the next few articles we will review the priority list for traditional houses, delve into how one can air seal their house and look at insulating options when it comes to your home.

In Alabama and many of the other southern states, January brought with it some of the coldest weather in some 20 odd years. With the cold weather, many of us also got an additional nasty shock when we opened up our electric &/or gas bills. For those that had not kept up with the maintenance on their house, may have felt some cold drafts inside, had their water pipes freeze up, and /or a heater that just could not keep up. For those located a little further north they may have also run into problems with ice dams.

In the next few articles, we are going to look at how one can effectively weatherize one’s own home. Doing this will not only help you during those cold snaps, but during the dog days of summer. This will also help your heating and cooling equipment last longer as it will not have to run as much. In this article though, I would like to address a program that was created to help those with limited incomes like SSI, SSD, or families fighting to make ends meet and how they can get help.

As some of my long-term readers may recall, I took a Weatherization class back in December for the Department of Energy (DOE) Weatherization Assistance Program (WAP). The Alabama Department of Economic & Community Affairs (ADECA) mandates this class for anyone that may want to participate in the State’s LI-WAP program. After taking this class, we pretty much decided that this program was not for our company for numerous reasons. Below we are going to take a quick look at the program and answer some frequently asked questions about the program.

The Weatherization Assistance Program (The Fed’s):

Per DOE’s website: This program was started back in 1976 and to date has helped 6.2 million of America’s neediest citizens. It benefits our nation by reducing our energy dependency, improving the environment, and stimulating economic development in low-income communities. Through this program, weatherization service providers install energy efficiency measures in the homes of qualifying homeowners free of charge. DOE provides funding and technical guidance to the states, but the states run their own programs and set rules for issues such as eligibility. They also select service providers, which are usually nonprofit agencies that serve families in their communities, and review their performance for quality. (Listing of all State Agencies involved with this program)

The Weatherization Assistance Program (Alabama):

Per ADECA’s website: ADECA contracts with local Community Action Agencies and the Montgomery County Commission to deliver WAP to low-income households in all 67 counties across the state. In order to receive assistance, the applicant’s income must not exceed 200% of the federally established poverty level. (#’s valid till 3.1.2010 /// 1 person = $21,660 / A couple = $29,140 / A family of 3 = $36,620 / A family of 4 = $44,100 /// If you have a larger family add $7,480 per family member)

WAP’s mission is to reduce energy costs for low-income households, particularly for the elderly, people with disabilities, and families with children, by improving the energy efficiency of their homes while ensuring their health and safety. Alabama weatherization assistance typically includes mitigating outside air infiltration into the conditioned space of the home, installing attic, wall and floor insulation, sealing duct work, performing HVAC system tune-ups and repairs, repairing leaky and/or faulty windows and doors, and replacing incandescent light bulbs with highly efficient compact fluorescent light bulbs. Health and safety checks are also performed on the home.

Who do I call or contact in Alabama to see if I qualify?

ADECA works directly with 22 different Community Action Agencies that cover all 67 counties in Alabama – the easiest way to see which CAA you should contact is to use the agencies Pre-screening Form.

I don’t live in Alabama, whom should I contact?

Please follow the following link to see which State Agency you should contact for more information: Listing of all State Agencies involved with this program

I live in a mobile home or a trailer; does this qualify as a “home”?

Yes it does. Most of the weatherization class and training I attended is actually directed at working on these types of homes.

I had a water leak and my floor is gone, or my AC unit hasn’t worked in years, will they help on this?

Most CAA’s also have discretionary money to help you out with issues like these. In many cases, they will add this to the bid request to get the issue corrected. If they are not able to help you out, many can point you to a group or another program that may be able to help you.

Ahhh February, we are now in the second full month of winter and many people in the northern states and elsewhere are starting to feel run down from a lack of sunshine. If you are starting to feel this way may we suggest that you get out, go visit some friends, go for a walk and enjoy those sunny days, maybe start working on your garden, getting a jump on your spring cleaning, or maybe paint a few walls a nice bright color. Just remember that spring is right around the corner so let’s see if we can get a jump on it, leaving us more time to relax & smell the flowers.

Climate Data for February

Maintenance Checklist

• Change out your HVAC filter.
• Test your Smoke Detector
• In last month’s checklist – we had you do the walk about, where you should have listed any area’s that might need to be watched, well it is time to check up on those areas. If any areas need attention, get them taken care of now or add them to your indoor projects list.
• Start a calendar listing any vacations you want to take, and any major indoor or outdoor projects you want or need to get done. Start working up a budget and time frame for all of them. (You might want to review this article for tips on assessing what you should address first – Tips for ending up with a successful project that looks great)
• If you have ceramic tile, granite or any other stone products in your house it is time to clean and reseal them, before the gardening and other outside work takes over – Ceramic Tile – Maintenance and Upkeep, Granite – Maintenance, Upkeep and a Geiger Counter?
• How is the rest of your flooring? Carpet, Wood, and Vinyl it might be a good time to look at getting it cleaned or repaired. Many flooring stores start having sales this month to get rid of last year’s overstock to make room for new.

Gardening & Grounds Checklist

• For all the plants and herbs brought inside, make sure you keep them watered
• Watch out for frost & hard freeze warnings – make sure you cover any plants, shrubs, or crops that may be damaged & cut back any damaged ones
• Bulbs – if a warm snap happens, your bulbs that you planted earlier might start growing a little too early – if so make sure that you cover any growth with a new layer of mulch to protect them from the rest of the cold winter.
• If you grow plants from seeds, it is time to get them started – many seeds should be started 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. (This generally is in March around here but April 15^th is the latest it has happened if memory serves me correctly)
• Many plants are now dormant which makes this the best time to plant new ones or trim existing ones (If in doubt please contact your local universities gardening center or a nursery – I have found them all to be very helpful)
• If you have a compost pile, now would be a good time to turn it if you haven’t been

Other items to consider

• Want to get a further jump on your Spring Cleaning – work on your pantry
  • Pull everything out, sort through it, and make some meal plans to help use up any canned goods or items in the freezer
  • Frozen foods are generally on sale in March – so by making room now you will have some room
  • If you have some canned goods that you don’t want or can’t see you using before they expire – donate them to a food bank or church (This time of year there stocks are pretty well depleted)
  • Dust off all the shelves & replace the shelf liners
  • Put all the items back in a way that works for you – all breakfast items on one shelf, or all canned vegetables, etc…
• Want another way to get a jump on your Spring Cleaning – Organize your laundry room
  • Clear everything out, clean the shelves & replace the shelf liners
  • Toss out anything that is just taking up space
  • Organize items by task – put all your sponges in one bin, rags in another bin

As always, please stay safe; if you feel uncomfortable, do not understand how to complete a task, etc… please call in a professional. We at SLS Construction do not want to see or hear that you have been hurt or injured. We do offer Handyman Services for your convenience, and can even customize a maintenance contract for you to eliminate you even having to worry about these items.

In the prior articles, we covered the proper maintenance of smoke detectors and many of the options available. In this article we will be discussing where smoke detectors should be located, and even how to prevent false alarms.  

The Starting Point – Current Codes

In order to answer the question of how many are needed or where they should be located – let us take a look at the most current codes being enforced for new housing and major renovations. Please note – many states, townships, and other locations may have a more stringent code than what is listed below.  

2006 IRC – R313.2 Location: Smoke alarms shall be installed in the following locations:
1. In each sleeping room.
2. Outside each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms.
3. On each additional story of the dwelling, including basements but not including crawl spaces and uninhabitable attics. In dwellings or dwelling units with split-levels and without an intervening door between the adjacent levels, a smoke alarm installed on the upper level shall suffice for the adjacent lower level provided that the lower level is less than one full story below the upper level.
When more than one smoke alarm is required to be installed within an individual dwelling unit, the alarm devices shall be interconnected in such a manner that the actuation of one alarm will activate all of the alarms in the individual unit.

That’s all? – Well no, not quite

Again, please note: your local jurisdiction may require measures that are more stringent. Why? You will find that most professionals do not say we built it to code, but that we only see the codes as the minimum requirements. One example noted was by Barry Elings who commented that Combination units not only “may” be the best option but in some States but are required by their state code.

Iowa code: The law requires all newly constructed residential properties in the State of Iowa to be equipped with smoke detectors that have both photoelectric and ionization sensors. Existing homes do not need to have the detectors changed out if they meet the manufacturer’s recommendations for use, installation and life expectancy. However when it is time to replace smoke detectors in existing homes, they must be replaced with the dual-sensor (photoelectric and ionization) detectors.

I must also point out that many jurisdictions have not adopted these codes and are still using an older version. I would have to ask though – do you really want to base your family’s safety on older outdated codes?

Starting next January many locations will start adopting the 2009 IRC codes. To my knowledge, the only major change to the code (related to smoke detectors) is mandating a CO detector be installed in all houses with an attached garage or combustion style appliances. Personally, we feel that they should be in all houses, especially the newer ones that utilize an ERV or HRV.

I have an older house & need to replace my existing smoke detectors – what do I need to do?

The first step is deciding what type of units you have; are they battery powered, hard wired, or inter-connected? The next step is figuring out if you need additional units. At a minimum, one smoke detector should be installed on every level of your house, which should include the basement and near every sleeping area. For individuals who are sound sleepers, make sure you install a smoke detector inside their bedroom. Once you have know how many units you need and what type they are, you can start looking at the available options listed in the prior article.

I have on older house, how can I get interconnected units?

Most older houses are going to be battery powered only, and unless you are planning a whole house remodel, changing from a battery or hard-wired units to inner-connected units would be cost prohibitive and in most cases require a licensed electrician.

You could hire a specialty alarm company to hook up a whole house burglar alarm & smoke detector system, but in some cases, they are not allowed by code to be the only system utilized. If they are allowed by code in your area, you would have to confirm that if you no longer paid for the central monitoring services that the system would still work.

The easiest solution in this case is to be the wireless units that will talk to each other. When you do your monthly test, you should hear all the other detectors go off confirming that the system is working properly.

Where should I place the new smoke detectors / is the current location a good spot?

When you have purchased your units, they will come with directions for proper placement.  We will always recommend that you follow the manufacturer’s directions. Some basic rules of thumb though are:

• Smoke rises, so smoke alarms should be mounted high on walls or ceilings. Do not mount the units directly in the corner as that is considered a dead air space & the smoke may not reach it.
  • A wall-mounted detector should be positioned with the top of the detector 6 to 12 inches below the ceiling.
  • A ceiling mounted detector should be positioned at least four inches away from the nearest wall.
• Detectors should also be installed in or near living areas, such as dens, living rooms or family rooms. 
• A smoke detector should be located at the top of each stairwell and at the each end of a long hallway (30 plus feet long)
• If you celebrate Christmas or Hanukkah, a smoke detector should be placed in the same room that you would have your Christmas tree or menorah located.
• To avoid false alarms, install smoke detectors at least ten feet away from stoves, fireplaces, and steamy showers / saunas. In most cases, you should not install a smoke detector in a bathroom or kitchen.  
• Do not install smoke alarms within 3 feet of nearby windows, doors, ceiling fans, or forced-air registers. The moving air can blow smoke away from the detector and/or result in false alarms.
• Do not place a smoke detector on an un-insulated exterior wall (basement) or ceiling (attic).  The temperature extremes can affect the batteries and the units themselves.
• If you have a deaf or hearing-impaired family member that lives with you, make sure you buy an appropriate unit for their room. While you may think that you will have plenty of time to warn them or wake them up, the odds are truthfully against you.

Prior Articles:
Smoke Detectors – A primer on the Options Available
Smoke Detectors – A primer on Maintenance
Everything we owned… Winter Specific Tips on preventing house fires

In the prior article, we covered the proper maintenance of smoke detectors. One item that we mentioned was that they should be replaced after 5 years. In this article, we will be discussing the different types of alarms and options that are available, including those for the deaf or hearing impaired.

There are two common methods for detecting smoke, which utilizes either the Photoelectric or Ionization system. Each type of unit has its own pros and cons.   

Ionization detectors

An Ionization detector contains a radioactive material that ionizes the air, making an electrical path.  When smoke enters, the smoke molecules attach themselves to the ions.  The change in electric current flow triggers the alarm. These detectors are generally considered more sensitive at sensing small particles. Small particles tend to be produced in greater amounts by hot, flaming fires that are consuming combustible materials rapidly. (i.e. paper burning in a wastebasket, a grease fire in the kitchen)

Photoelectric detectors

A Photoelectric detector contains a light source (generally a bulb that should be changed out every 3 years) and a photocell. When the light from the bulb reflects off the smoke particles, it is directed towards the photocell.  The photocell, which is then activated, triggers the alarm. These detectors are best at sensing large smoke particles. Larger smoke particles tend to be produced in greater amounts by smoldering fires, which may smolder for hours before bursting into flame. (i.e. cigarettes burning in couches or bedding, spark from overloaded plug smoldering in a pile of dirty clothes).

Combination Units – the Best of Both Worlds?

Needless to say, the safest idea would be having both kinds of detectors in the house. Well there are actually combination units available that incorporate both ionization and photoelectric technologies and provide early warning for both types of fires. These units will occasionally be listed as Dual Smoke Detectors. With today’s technology and testing this may be the best option for you when you need to replace your existing units.

Battery Powered, Hard Wired, Inter-Connected, Wireless?

• Battery Powered: Most older houses and smoke detectors are battery powered. The major issue with these is that when the battery dies, the alarm does not work. The other problem is that if you are not close to that alarm, you might not hear it.
• Hard Wired: The next iteration was where the detector was connected directly to your houses AC power. (Mandatory for new houses under 1979 IRC) Unfortunately, many of these earlier units did not have a battery backup and if you lost power, or forgot that you turned off the breaker due to a false alarm, the alarm does not work (Battery Backup wasn’t mandatory until the 1991 IRC). The other problem with some of these earlier units is that if you are not close to that alarm, you might not hear it.
• Inter-Connected: Starting with the 1994 IRC, the inter-connected or in-line provision was added which simply means that when one alarm goes off, they all sound.
• Wireless interconnection: If you live in an older house, you can now have a battery powered or hard-wired system that is inter-connected via wireless signals.

Smoke Detectors for the Deaf or Hearing Impaired

Most smoke detectors alert one to a fire by the use of an audible 85-decibel alarm. For those that are deaf or hearing impaired there are a few options that are available to warn you and others of a fire. The first option that is currently mandatory in all Commercial buildings is a smoke detector with a built-in strobe light. While those will work great if one is awake, how about when you are sleeping? There also happens to be smoke alarms perform not only the above functions, but will also make send a signal to specialty watches that vibrate or can connects to a unit that will shake the bed.  You can contact the National Fire Protection Association’s Center for High-Risk Outreach at 617.984.7826 for a list of manufacturers and other resources.

Other Specialty Units and Options

• Combination Smoke Detector & Carbon Monoxide Sensor – We recommend having at least one of these in each house, especially in the newer “tight” houses that utilize an ERV or HRV.
• Talking Alarm –This is a nice feature when you have a unit like the one above so you know exactly what the issue is.
• Mute Button – Just in case dinner was a little overcooked, you can mute the unnecessary alarms immediately. These will automatically reset after a set period of time.
• EZ access battery drawer – This is a nice feature so you do not have to remove the detector from the ceiling to change the battery
• Low battery signal mute – I wish mine had this, as it always seems that it won’t start chirping until you are trying to go to sleep & someone used up all the spare batteries. Pressing this button will stop the low battery signal from going off for up to 8 hours

Additional Notes when buying a smoke detector

• Make sure your smoke alarms have been tested and certified for safety by a laboratory. This means that samples of that particular model have been tested under operating conditions and will perform as stated.�
  • UL: Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (Most popular in the US)
  • ETL: Originally a mark of ETL Testing Laboratories, now Intertek Testing Services.
  • CSA: Canadian Standards Association
  • CE: Conformance European – meets the EU Specifications

• Check to see if it is easy to maintain and clean. 
• Be sure bulbs and batteries are easy to purchase and convenient to install.
• As mentioned above – you should get an “interconnected” system, whether it is hard wired or a battery operated wireless system.

Other Articles:
Smoke Detectors – A primer on Maintenance
Smoke Detectors – A primer on Placement & Location
Everything we owned… Winter Specific Tips on preventing house fires

“Where there’s smoke there’s fire”; while this statement is not fully factually correct we can tell you that most “fire related” deaths actually occur from smoke inhalation. I can honestly say I have yet to see a house that did not have a smoke detector in it, but I sure have seen the results when they did not work. Fortunately, none I have been at has involved a fatality and it has always been after the fact.

In the following articles, we are going to take a quick look at why smoke detectors are important, how to maintain them, the common types of detectors that are available, what the current code requirements are, and how to eliminate false alarms while still helping to keep our families safe. We would like to point out, that these are general rules of thumb and that you should always follow the directions provided by the manufacturers and if you have any doubts or questions about something, you should call in a professional.

Why do I need a smoke detector?

First, a quick lesson on the basics – Smoke is generally a byproduct of combustion and is made up of a collection of gases, solid and liquid particulates. If you have ever seen a fire in a closed room you will notice that the smoke rises, but can quickly fill up a room thus making seeing and breathing very difficult. This is why we were taught back in grade school to drop and crawl to a safe meeting place outside. 

During the day, one can generally see the smoke and / or recognize that something is not quite right. At nighttime while one is sleeping, that is a completely different situation. One of the gasses given off is Carbon Monoxide (CO), which can make one lethargic and starts bonding to your blood, starving your brain of oxygen. You add that on top of alcohol or one who is sound asleep due to pulling a double shift, and your brain will never process the signals in time.

How often should I change the batteries?

• For battery operated detectors, we recommend changing out the batteries every 6 months, during the months of January* and July*.
•  For units hard wired into the house, we recommend changing out the batteries once a year during the month of January*.
• Some units come with a sealed Lithium battery, which should be good for 10 years.
• If your smoke detector starts to chirp every so often, that is its signal to you that the battery is dying & should be replaced immediately

* Many people may be using the “Change your Clocks – change your battery” mantra when we switch to and from Daylight Savings Time (DST). If you have been doing that, all we can say is great and keep it up. For those of you that have not been following that advice, we recommend you start following our Monthly Homeowners Checklists. I chose the months of January and July because it ties in nicely with the checklist and that we keep extending the period that DST is observed (i.e. it is now up to 7 months).

Is there any other maintenance I should perform?

• Once a month you should press the “Test” button on your smoke detector to verify it works. If it does not work, you should try changing the battery out to see if it works. If it still does not work, you need to replace it immediately.
• When you change out the batteries, you should vacuum the face and grillwork.
• Every 5 years you should replace the units (Many groups list replacing them every 10 years, but go onto talk about how they lose 50% effectiveness after 5 years – personally I don’t want to base my family’s safety on a device that is only 50% effective)

Other Articles:
Smoke Detectors – A primer on the Options Available
Smoke Detectors – A primer on Placement & Location
Everything we owned… Winter Specific Tips on preventing house fires

When having your house remodeled, you as a homeowner you have so many choices to make and so many things to consider. How many nights have you spent worrying about your project, hoping that you and your contractor have thought of everything? As a contractor, I can honestly tell you that many of us go through the same thing. In some cases, I have built the entire project in my head quite a few times, trying to visualize potential problem areas, looking for items that could be improved, and how to make any possible future upgrades easier. 

I am glad to say that sometimes, a company or individual comes up with a product that just screams, “Why didn’t I think of that?” In this case, I believe Mike Hines and his partner at HomePath Products have come up with such a product.  While I have not had a chance to use this product in a project yet, based on the samples I have received I am quite impressed. In Mike’s own words…   

When remodeling, a small amount of forward planning creates tremendous flexibility and value for homeowners. Oftentimes, when planning a remodeling project, the “needs” discussion revolves around function and aesthetics. The world behind the drywall is usually the realm of the construction expert but a little knowledge of what happens in there can benefit the homeowner greatly. 

Most homeowners view the wall as just that, a wall that either bears a load or provides separation and definition to the periphery of the room. Within those walls you find many supporting systems that are carefully thought out in design and construction. In the mind of the builder there’s framing for structural support, water pipes, electrical wiring, ductwork, low voltage wiring, waste pipes, thermal insulation, exterior sheathing, vapor barriers, drywall, telephone wires, noise reduction insulation, and vibration dampening construction to name just a few. Once the drywall is up and the homeowner is pleased with the results the remodeler gets to take a deep breath knowing that everything behind the drywall went according to plan. 

When the time eventually comes to modify or add computer network wiring, security systems, whole-house audio or other consumer electronics driven systems, the contents of the wall may make such upgrades or changes a major challenge. However, with preparation, a change in practices, and open communication between customers and contractors, remodeling experts like SLS Construction help avoid future wiring problems for building and homeowners. 

One common scenario is the kitchen. For many years the question was, where would you like the phone jack located? Today, most new kitchens are getting wired, not only for the telephone, but cable TV, computer networking, and intercoms. If you are considering getting your kitchen remodeled, you can easily get those items added at that time, but what does tomorrow bring? What happens if you require new wiring due to unforeseen changes in consumer electronics, lifestyle changes, etc…By offering and installing in-wall cable pathways, remodelers can help solve a long-term problem for building and homeowners. Without in-wall pathways this becomes difficult and expensive. Think of in-wall pathways as an insurance policy against technological change. 

There are Many Types of Cabling Systems

It is important for the homeowner and remodeler to understand the available cable pathway options to determine which products provide the best balance of installation ease and long-term cabling flexibility. Some common types of cabling systems include metallic conduit, non-metallic rigid conduit, flexible nonmetallic raceway, and modern geometrically optimized in-wall cable pathway systems. There are also external solutions, but after selecting wall treatments, the last thing a building or homeowner generally wants to do is add unsightly surface mount raceways to hide cables that could have been more suitably hidden behind the walls. 

Choosing the Right System

When selecting in-wall pathways, it is important to choose systems that allow placement of outlets from floor to ceiling, before or after drywall or expensive wall treatments are in place. In-wall cable pathway systems help to capture nearly all the future cabling upgrade installation costs at the time of construction or renovation. Without such systems, there are many additional expensive risks of adding cables later: drilling, wire fishing, insulation displacement, cable installation, w all damage, wall repair, and redecorating. Cable pathways should also allow electricians to install line voltage wires permanently and horizontally in a daisy-chain manner while permitting low voltage cables to be installed perpendicularly to achieve best performance. 

By combining pre-installed pathways while remodeling, business or homeowners create more efficient structures that enable future wiring decisions without compromise.

In case you missed it – January happens to be National Radon Month. Radon (Rn) is a chemical element found on the periodic chart, with an atomic number of 86 found all over the world. Radon is a naturally occurring, radioactive, colorless, and tasteless gas that is produced from decaying Uranium (U). Radon has half-life of 3.8 days and is one of the densest elements that is still considered a gas. Because it is so dense, you will generally find the highest concentrations located in basements and crawlspaces.

Should you be worried?

Believe it or not – this is actually debatable by some people. According to the EPA, they estimate that there are over 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year directly attributable to Radon gas. This would make Radon the second leading cause of lung cancer. On the other side of the coin, you can actually go to a “Radon Health Mine or Spa” to help eliminate or reduce issues from certain chronic illnesses. http://www.radonmine.com/why.html

In all truthfulness, both sides actually make some interesting points. This is one case where I can easily see how this falls under the Yin & Yang principle – where there is some good, there will some bad. In the end though – the question comes down to, should I test for radon in my house, and if so why?

Should I test for Radon?

In short – yes, you should have your house tested. Well, what about the health affects that the other place lists? In life, most things are good for you in moderation. Food, water, wine, enjoying a hot spa, etc…either are necessities, make one fell better and/ or can help one relax. Over doing any of those items though can possibly lead to ones death. So even if the positive effects are all legitimate, do you really think that living in that cave full time would be healthful?

How do I test for Radon?

There are numerous ways including short term & long-term tests. The first step is to pick up a test – which can easily be ordered online, picked up at a local store, or in some states, you can pick up a free test kit from the state agency in charge of Radon. (Clickable Map by the EPA for State Radon Office Locations)

The basics are pretty simple, you or the testing company place the test kit in the basement or other room* & leave it there for so many days (please refer to the directions that came with your specific kit). After that period of time, the test kit is sent in to be analyzed. Depending on the test result numbers, determines if you should perform a follow up test, or you can relax. (EPA guide on How to Test for Radon)

* As an FYI – In most cases, it is recommended that you do not place the test kit in the kitchen. If you have granite countertops, you may wish to place a second kit (labeled appropriately) in the kitchen if you are worried about the countertops containing high levels of radon. This was previously discussed in this article: Granite – Maintenance, Upkeep and a Geiger Counter? 

When should I test?

January is National Radon Month for a reason – this is the generally the time that the greatest concentrations are found because we have closed the vents in our crawl spaces, sealed up the basements, etc… You can still perform the test anytime throughout the year, but the highest concentrations are generally during the months of November through February due to the reasons listed above. In some areas of Alabama, this may not be the norm due to Karst Geology. To find out if you live in one of these areas’s please visit http://www.aces.edu/department/family/radon/test-info.html.

How often should I test?

Most government agencies recommend that a test should be conducted every two years. They also recommend one being conducted before any major renovations are done to your property, and after the renovation has been completed. The main reason for conducting a test before hand is to see if you should at least consider putting in a passive remediation system. The main reason for testing afterwards is not to see if you can sue the builder, but to see if any changes that were made are now allowing the radon access to area’s it did not have access to before.

To be fully honest, I laughed when I first saw this, but now I am getting more and more upset as I keep looking into this and the more I think about it. Before we go into what has gotten my blood boiling, let me start from the beginning. I have been kicking around the idea about an article for watching out for bad advice given over the internet. There are so many bad posts & videos on how to install ceramic tile, or anything else you can think of it boggles the mind.  

Well, today via Twitter – up comes this post from Remodeling_Show “Almost 1 million books / 9 DIY titles recalled due to fire hazard and shock potential” National Ledger Link. My first thought was, you are kidding right, I mean what in the world, would cause a book to be recalled? After I read the quick article, I decided it might work out pretty well with the article about bad information on the internet. In fact, this will tie in nicely with that one video on wiring a receptacle that contained a combination of over 15 mistakes. (omissions, wrong information, and simply doing it wrong)  

Well before I make a fool of myself, I decided to make sure this wasn’t a joke someone posted. I first decided to pull a search for this term “associated press book recall lowes.” In the results page I get a link directly to Lowes Consumer recall site. Well guess what, it was not listed on their site, so just maybe the article was a joke, and I should not have retweeted that link so fast. Well, Lowe’s was nice enough to put a link on their page to CPSC (Consumer Protection Safety Commission). If anyone were to issue a recall, it would go through them, so I decided to take a quick look. Hmm, second link under most recent recalls is Home Improvement Books.  Well, well, there it is -9 books are being recalled, 2 from Lowes, 6 from Sunset & 1 from AmeriSpec.

Well the recall is legit, and maybe Lowe’s just hasn’t gotten around to updating their site – I wonder about Sunset. Well to make a long story short – none of the books being recalled is on either of their sites. Amazingly also missing from both their sites, is an apology or any information on a recall taking place.

Now I was left with, who is AmeriSpec? Well come to find out, they are a large company that does Home Inspections. Surely, they couldn’t have put out bad information like that could they? Well surprise, surprise – the book is not listed on their site, but I found it mentioned on one of their franchisee sites. Hmm, no apology or notice on their site also.

By this time, I am starting to get really steamed, especially when you consider, that this probably could have easily been avoided with an apology & the posting of the correct data on their websites. I don’t know about you, but have you ever seen a perfect book yet? Sometimes there are a few spelling or grammatical errors, occasionally a diagram is labeled incorrectly, a step was left out, etc… This type of stuff happens almost all the time. In some cases, it is caught just after the book goes to press and they add what is called errata. In some cases, it is not caught until the books have started being sold. In these cases, they fix the next published version and the company will put out an apology and the corrected information on their web site. In order for a book to be recalled, one has to wonder, why did they refuse?

In case you might be wondering about the publishing company – Oxmoor House, well they get some kudos for actually addressing it at the bottom of their main page. Maybe not the most looked at place, but at least the information is there.

In closing, if you are doing something for the first time or it has been a few years, I recommend that you review and follow the manufacturer’s directions. This is especially true if the item is under warranty, and you need to return it. In some cases, you might even want to check on the manufacturer’s site to see if there are any updated directions or additional tips. As for information found in books, on the web, etc… take it with a grain of salt. Consider how old is the information, have the codes changed since it was written, is this really a best practice that should be followed, is it accurate, and who actually wrote it?

To view the books affected, book covers & to get your money back – http://recallqa.com/sunset/_cs/supporthome.aspx?sSessionID=